Ultimaker

Latest revision as of 17:19, 12 April 2016

[edit] Troubleshooting

You might find this excellent visual guide useful:

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

[edit] Usage

[edit] How to print things

TIMTOWTDI, but this works.

Download or create something. That's coming as an STL file
Power on the Ultimaker (switch on the side)
Start the cura software
Open the object in Cura
Insert the SD card from the Ultimaker into your computer
click "save to SD card"
Eject the card, insert it into the Ultimaker
From the Ulticontroller menu, choose "Print from SD", then your file.

Interesting changes in the "full settings" mode. These are not dogma, just what worked for some members. See the visual troubleshooting guide above to understand what effect these have.

fill density: to make really light objects or really heavy and stable ones.
print speed: current trial which works is 80
printing temperature: 210 is still fine
raft: only if you have a very narrow but tall object
skirt: sometimes one round is not enough, so put 2

expert menu
- fan speed min: 20
- bridge speed: 150 (can help to get overhang more straight)
- retrace on jumps only: if print is not nice but contains lots of jumps, try to disable this
- enable hop: this can help but slows priting down a lottle

[edit] When working with the Ultimaker, pay attention to the following things:

When printing small objects and objects with a very small base, don't print on a raft, especially for PLA. Rafts are just a waste of plastic with a well-calibrated Z axis. Gunstick's Raft Exception™ is narrow but tall objects that can easily be kicked over; a raft can make them more stable. Newer Cura versions even have an experimental option to avoid kicking the object by moving the platform down.
Be careful not to lower or raise the bed by bumping into it. The Z axis has been carefully calibrated. Verify that there is no space between the screws and the top of the bed. But don't turn the screws! Unless you've messed it up.
Clean the head and bed with isopropyl alcohol before you start. If you want to be extra nice, clean the bed when you're done.
If the extrusion head doesn't heat, flick the switch next to the USB port. If you hear the ventilation, then it's on!
Sometimes the plastic won't stick to the surface. Cancel the print and use the controller (little box hanging on the machine) to return the extrusion head to "Auto Home". To do this, navigate (using push and scroll on the wheel) into the Menu->Prepare->Auto Home. To make it work, the plastic has to stick to the surface before it makes the skirt outline, or it will only start to stick at a random moment before or during the skirt, with a high risk of leaving a small drop of extra plastic. Try cleaning the bed with alcohol. If that fails, try helping the plastic filament down on the bed when the head initially lowers, or re-taping the bed. But this probably means the Z axis is de-calibrated. You can also change the parameter to do 2 or 3 skirt outlines.
Don't forget to take the object off the platform before printing the next one. Doh! In case you do forget, the emergency off is the power switch.
Put scrap plastic into the container glass. Maybe one day it will be possible to recycle.

[edit] Does it cost something?

You can configure the printing cost directly into Cura. After prepare print, the approximate weight and length of plastic is calculated and there you can then see the cost. To configure:

File -> Preferences
price/kg: 50
price/m: 0.5

You don't need to pay if the print is only for some cents. Just when getting into massive amounts (some euros) it would be cool to donate a bit. There is a piggybank (Sparschwein) at the soldering table.

[edit] how to on linux

It is preferable to have your own setup on your own machine, or maybe on a dedicated account on a syn2cat computer. So you can have your own settings and don't need to fiddle around with the cura profiles which then get messed up by the next user.

[edit] Sketchup

Only working on intel/amd as it's a windows program. If you have windows, just use windows! (I know there is 3D software for linux, but I'm lost in how to use that)

apt-get install wine libwine-gl
download sketchup 8 free http://www.sketchup.com/download/all
wine sketchupwen.exe
run it: vblank_mode=0 wine '~/.wine/drive_C/Program Files (x86)/Google/Sketchup/Sketchup.exe'
consult this http://wiki.winehq.org/GoogleSketchup (you need probably that registry: "wine regedit") error "SketchUp was unable to initialize OpenGL!], run regedit, open [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Google\SketchUp8\GLConfig\Display], and change "HW_OK" to 1
add module for STL export http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl chose the *rbz file) then Window->Preferences > Extensions > Install Extension
draw object in millimeters
export in millimeters

[edit] Cura

instructions http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Cura
it's kinda working http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Installing_Cura_on_Linux (you need to do that pypy thing if you're 64 bit)

Cura14 has a bad dependency and does not install on 64 bit. You can install like this

mkdir c
dpkg-deb -x Cura-14.01-debian.deb c
dpkg-deb --control Cura-14.01-debian.deb c/DEBIAN
sed -i 's/Architecture: i386/Architecture: all/' c/DEBIAN/control
dpkg -b c Cura-14.01-debian_all.deb
rm -r c
sudo gdebi Cura-14.01-debian_all.deb

If you are unable to print (clicking on the print button does not manifest a window), you can prepare print and write your gcode file to the SD card
To make the print button work, set this environment

export PYTHONPATH="$PYTHONPATH":/usr/lib/python2.7/dist-packages/wx-2.8-gtk2-unicode/

[edit] Parameters

Tweaking the parameters can be very useful, so here are some variables from the INI file

bottom_layer_speed = 20
bottom_thickness = 0.1
brim_line_count = 10
cool_head_lift = False
cool_head_lift = True
cool_min_feedrate = 10
cool_min_layer_time = 5
cool_start.gcode = 
fan_enabled = True
fan_full_height = 0.5
fan_full_height = 2
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
filament_diameter = 2.85
filament_diameter2 = 2.85
filament_flow = 100.0
fill_density = 15
fill_overlap = 33
layer0_width_factor = 100
layer_height = 0.15
nozzle_size = 0.4
ooze_shield = False
overlap_dual = 0.15
platform_adhesion = Brim
print_bed_temperature = 70
print_speed = 100
print_temperature = 220
print_temperature2 = 220
raft_airgap = 0.22
raft_base_linewidth = 1.0
raft_base_thickness = 0.3
raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4
raft_interface_thickness = 0.27
raft_line_spacing = 3.0
raft_margin = 5.0
raft_surface_layers = 2
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_combing = True
retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
retraction_enable = True
retraction_hop = 0.0
retraction_minimal_extrusion = 2
retraction_min_travel = 10
retraction_min_travel = 1.5
retraction_speed = 40.0
skirt_gap = 3.0
skirt_line_count = 3
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
solid_bottom = True
solid_layer_thickness = 1
solid_top = True
support_angle = 60
support_dual_extrusion = Both
support_fill_rate = 15
support = None
support_type = Grid
support_xy_distance = 0.7
support_z_distance = 0.15
travel_speed = 150.0
wall_thickness = 0.8
wipe_tower = False
wipe_tower_volume = 15

[edit] printing from SD card

switch ultimaker on
navigate to card menu
select file
printer heats up, and prints the object

[edit] Tasks

[edit] TODO (more or less in that order):

Dual fan upgrade - can it be done for dual heads?
Spring-loaded NEMA 17 steppers / belt tensioner
Ulti-Foot
Handle
Printhead cover - but isn't that unneeded inertia on the head?
Collection of tools
Some kind of Tool thing or awesome laser-cut Ultimaker Tool Holder
UltiController Clamp
Get PLA to stick to your Printrbot build platform with Hairspray or ABS juice
Wire the dioder directly to the ultimaker power supply
Put a webcam so to watch remotely. Doodle3d can be made into a webcam server or just use a simple wifi camera.

[edit] DONE:

Locking key for Ultimaker filament feeder
curious llama belt tensioner
Ultimaker: Z-axis end-switch fine-adjuster, Switch mount (or some variation of that idea)
Ultimaker Z axis calibration
Re-greased fan to reduce noise (which wasn't very successful)
Ulticontroller rotary dial
Ikea Dioder LED strip on Ultimaker
Connect Doodle 3D permanently to create a network printer or just doodling with your smartphone

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-== Usage ==
+== Troubleshooting ==
+You might find this excellent visual guide useful:
+http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
+== Usage ==
+[[File:Ultimaker-syn2cat.jpg|320px|right]]
 === How to print things ===
+TIMTOWTDI, but this works.
 * Download or create something. That's coming as an STL file
-* power on the ultimaker (switch on, plug in usb)
+* Power on the Ultimaker (switch on the side)
 * Start the cura software
-* load object
+* Open the object in Cura
-* click "prepare print"
+* Insert the SD card from the Ultimaker into your computer
-* click "print"
+* click "save to SD card"
+* Eject the card, insert it into the Ultimaker
+* From the Ulticontroller menu, choose "Print from SD", then your file.
+Interesting changes in the "full settings" mode. These are not dogma, just what worked for some members. See the visual troubleshooting guide above to understand what effect these have.
+* fill density: to make really light objects or really heavy and stable ones.
+* print speed: current trial which works is 80
+* printing temperature: 210 is still fine
+* raft: only if you have a very narrow but tall object
+* skirt: sometimes one round is not enough, so put 2
+* expert menu
+** fan speed min: 20
+** bridge speed: 150 (can help to get overhang more straight)
+** retrace on jumps only: if print is not nice but contains lots of jumps, try to disable this
+** enable hop: this can help but slows priting down a lottle
 === When working with the Ultimaker, pay attention to the following things: ===
 * When printing small objects and objects with a very small base, ''don't print on a raft'', especially for PLA. Rafts are just a waste of plastic with a well-calibrated Z axis.  Gunstick's Raft Exception™ is narrow but tall objects that can easily be kicked over; a raft can make them more stable. Newer Cura versions even have an experimental option to avoid kicking the object by moving the platform down.
-* Be careful not to lower or raise the bed by bumping into it. The Z axis has been carefully calibrated. Verify that there is no space between the screws and the top of the bed. But don't turn the screws!
+* Be careful not to lower or raise the bed by bumping into it. The Z axis has been carefully calibrated. Verify that there is no space between the screws and the top of the bed. But don't turn the screws! Unless you've messed it up.
 * Clean the head and bed with isopropyl alcohol before you start. If you want to be extra nice, clean the bed when you're done.
 * If the extrusion head doesn't heat, flick the switch next to the USB port. If you hear the ventilation, then it's on!
-* After preparing the print, press "Print" in the main window (the one with the 3D Model) and wait for the second Cura window to pop up. If you can't see it, look for it. Check that the Windows is called after the file you want to print. When printing several files in a row, always be sure to close the second smaller Cura window before printing the next item or you will print the first item again (check window title).
 * Sometimes the plastic won't stick to the surface. Cancel the print and use the controller (little box hanging on the machine) to return the extrusion head to "Auto Home". To do this, navigate (using push and scroll on the wheel) into the Menu->Prepare->Auto Home. To make it work, the plastic has to stick to the surface before it makes the skirt outline, or it will only start to stick at a random moment before or during the skirt, with a high risk of leaving a small drop of extra plastic. Try cleaning the bed with alcohol. If that fails, try helping the plastic filament down on the bed when the head initially lowers, or re-taping the bed. But this probably means the Z axis is de-calibrated. You can also change the parameter to do 2 or 3 skirt outlines.
 *Don't forget to take the object off the platform before printing the next one. Doh! In case you do forget, the emergency off is the power switch.
@@ Line 23: / Line 47: @@
 * File -> Preferences
 * price/kg: 50
-* price/m: 25
+* price/m: 0.5
 You don't need to pay if the print is only for some cents. Just when getting into massive amounts (some euros) it would be cool to donate a bit. There is a piggybank (Sparschwein) at the soldering table.
 === how to on linux ===
 It is preferable to have your own setup on your own machine, or maybe on a dedicated account on a syn2cat computer. So you can have your own settings and don't need to fiddle around with the cura profiles which then get messed up by the next user.
-==== sketchup ====
+==== Sketchup ====
 Only working on intel/amd as it's a windows program. If you have windows, just use windows!
 (I know there is 3D software for linux, but I'm lost in how to use that)
-* apt-get install wine
+* apt-get install wine libwine-gl
-* download sketchup http://www.sketchup.com/intl/en/download/gsu.html
+* download sketchup 8 free http://www.sketchup.com/download/all
 * wine sketchupwen.exe
-* run it: wine '~/.wine/drive_C/Program Files (x86)/Google/Sketchup/Sketchup.exe'
+* run it: vblank_mode=0 wine '~/.wine/drive_C/Program Files (x86)/Google/Sketchup/Sketchup.exe'
-* consult this http://wiki.winehq.org/GoogleSketchup (you need probably that registry: "wine regedit")
+* consult this http://wiki.winehq.org/GoogleSketchup (you need probably that registry: "wine regedit") error "SketchUp was unable to initialize OpenGL!], run regedit, open [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Google\SketchUp8\GLConfig\Display], and change "HW_OK" to 1
-* add module for STL export http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl chose the *rbz file)
+* add module for STL export http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl chose the *rbz file) then Window->Preferences > Extensions > Install Extension
 * draw object in millimeters
 * export in millimeters
@@ Line 43: / Line 68: @@
 * instructions  http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Cura
 * it's kinda working http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Installing_Cura_on_Linux (you need to do that pypy thing if you're 64 bit)
-* I was unable to get it to print, clicking on the print button does not manifest a printing window (git version is even more buggy). But at least you can prepare print and write your gcode file to the SD card
+Cura14 has a bad dependency and does not install on 64 bit. You can install like this
+ mkdir c
+ dpkg-deb -x Cura-14.01-debian.deb c
+ dpkg-deb --control Cura-14.01-debian.deb c/DEBIAN
+ sed -i 's/Architecture: i386/Architecture: all/' c/DEBIAN/control
+ dpkg -b c Cura-14.01-debian_all.deb
+ rm -r c
+ sudo gdebi Cura-14.01-debian_all.deb
+* If you are unable to print (clicking on the print button does not manifest a window), you can prepare print and write your gcode file to the SD card
+* To make the print button work, set this environment
+<pre>
+export PYTHONPATH="$PYTHONPATH":/usr/lib/python2.7/dist-packages/wx-2.8-gtk2-unicode/
+</pre>
+==== Parameters ====
+Tweaking the parameters can be very useful, so here are some variables from the INI file
+ bottom_layer_speed = 20
+ bottom_thickness = 0.1
+ brim_line_count = 10
+ cool_head_lift = False
+ cool_head_lift = True
+ cool_min_feedrate = 10
+ cool_min_layer_time = 5
+ cool_start.gcode =
+ fan_enabled = True
+ fan_full_height = 0.5
+ fan_full_height = 2
+ fan_speed = 100
+ fan_speed_max = 100
+ filament_diameter = 2.85
+ filament_diameter2 = 2.85
+ filament_flow = 100.0
+ fill_density = 15
+ fill_overlap = 33
+ layer0_width_factor = 100
+ layer_height = 0.15
+ nozzle_size = 0.4
+ ooze_shield = False
+ overlap_dual = 0.15
+ platform_adhesion = Brim
+ print_bed_temperature = 70
+ print_speed = 100
+ print_temperature = 220
+ print_temperature2 = 220
+ raft_airgap = 0.22
+ raft_base_linewidth = 1.0
+ raft_base_thickness = 0.3
+ raft_interface_linewidth = 0.4
+ raft_interface_thickness = 0.27
+ raft_line_spacing = 3.0
+ raft_margin = 5.0
+ raft_surface_layers = 2
+ retraction_amount = 4.5
+ retraction_combing = True
+ retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
+ retraction_enable = True
+ retraction_hop = 0.0
+ retraction_minimal_extrusion = 2
+ retraction_min_travel = 10
+ retraction_min_travel = 1.5
+ retraction_speed = 40.0
+ skirt_gap = 3.0
+ skirt_line_count = 3
+ skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
+ solid_bottom = True
+ solid_layer_thickness = 1
+ solid_top = True
+ support_angle = 60
+ support_dual_extrusion = Both
+ support_fill_rate = 15
+ support = None
+ support_type = Grid
+ support_xy_distance = 0.7
+ support_z_distance = 0.15
+ travel_speed = 150.0
+ wall_thickness = 0.8
+ wipe_tower = False
+ wipe_tower_volume = 15
 ==== printing from SD card ====
 * switch ultimaker on
-* unplug the USB cable !!! (else it will not print)
 * navigate to card menu
 * select file
@@ Line 55: / Line 159: @@
 === TODO (more or less in that order): ===
+* [https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20503-ultimaker-original-dual-fan-upgrade Dual fan upgrade] - can it be done for dual heads?
 * [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40041 Spring-loaded NEMA 17 steppers / belt tensioner]
 * [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25950 Ulti-Foot]
 * [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29469 Handle]
-* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21184 Printhead cover]
+* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21184 Printhead cover - but isn't that unneeded inertia on the head?]
-* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25436 Locking key for Ultimaker filament feeder]
-* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40583 Ikea Dioder LED strip on Ultimaker]
 * Collection of [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39973 tools]
 * Some kind of [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18098 Tool thing] or awesome [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:41661 laser-cut Ultimaker Tool Holder]
 * [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22719 UltiController Clamp]
+* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8f_mmFUyug Get PLA to stick to your Printrbot build platform with Hairspray or ABS juice]
+* Wire the dioder directly to the ultimaker power supply
+* Put a webcam so to watch remotely. Doodle3d can be made into a webcam server or just use a simple wifi camera.
 See also http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Calibrate
 === DONE: ===
+* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25436 Locking key for Ultimaker filament feeder]
 * [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32044 curious llama belt tensioner]
 * [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32372 Ultimaker: Z-axis end-switch fine-adjuster, Switch mount (or some variation of that idea)]
@@ Line 73: / Line 180: @@
 * [http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?t=161 Re-greased fan to reduce noise] (which wasn't very successful)
 * [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33286 Ulticontroller rotary dial]
+* [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40583 Ikea Dioder LED strip on Ultimaker]
+* Connect [http://www.doodle3d.com/ Doodle 3D] permanently to create a network printer or just [http://connect.doodle3d.com/ doodling] with your smartphone
 == Some links on the ''Spaweck'': ==
@@ Line 82: / Line 191: @@
 * [http://wiki.ultimaker.com/No_strings_attached No strings attached]
 * [http://techwall.net/analyzing-your-first-print Analyzing your first print]
+* [https://wiki.raumzeitlabor.de/wiki/Ultimaker Raumzeitlabor's Ultimaker]
 == Paint gallery: ==
-* [http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8295/7898763184_a6f995c936_k.jpg Cool blue paint job 1] [http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8029/7898763630_c9a3862926_k.jpg 2]
+* [http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/7-my-ultimaker/ Cool blue paint job]
 * [http://instagram.com/p/TYwjVQn7Fo/ Cool black paint job]

Ultimaker

Latest revision as of 17:19, 12 April 2016

Contents

[edit] Troubleshooting

[edit] Usage

[edit] How to print things

[edit] When working with the Ultimaker, pay attention to the following things:

[edit] Does it cost something?

[edit] how to on linux

[edit] Sketchup

[edit] Cura

[edit] Parameters

[edit] printing from SD card

[edit] Tasks

[edit] TODO (more or less in that order):

[edit] DONE:

[edit] Some links on the Spaweck:

[edit] Paint gallery:

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